Mug #77

Happy Monday

#100Mugs100Way

Day 77
Here is Mug#77 - Happy Monday

I used to dread Mondays, but I enjoy them immensely now, mostly because I am my own boss, and I decide what direction to go.
Today I will be switching to a different clay body and start the journey of completing the last set of my mugs—only 23 more to create.

Looking at the last nine I made, they all look very similar; what do you think, should I go a little crazy with the designs?

Mug #76

Writers Block

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 76

Here is Mug#76 - Writer’s block

I will never run out of ideas to create, but I will run out of words.

Mug #75

Ornaments

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 75

Here is Mug #75 - Ornaments

Hey did you see the ornaments I am about to glaze ? Head over to my Reels and check them out.
I will be offering them for sale.

Mug #74

The handles

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 74

Here is #Mug#74 - The handles

Today I had a breakthrough. At the beginning of this year, I purchased an extruder thinking I would use it to make handles.
I have come to realize I prefer pulling handles, they come put looking much nicer than the one extruded.

Mug #73

Almost there

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 73

Here is #Mug#73 - Almost there

I am almost at the end of my project of 100Mugs100Ways mugs, 27 more days to go, then the fun begins glazing the rest. I never get tired of the different phases of making.

Mug #72

Blursday

#100Mugs#100Way

Day 72

Here is #Mug#72 - Blursday

Who has had a case of Blursday? I have for weeks. Most days, I have absolutely no clue what day it is; they all blur together.

BTW, I love that handle.

Mug #71

It is cold on this 1st day in December

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 71

Here is #Mug#71 - It is cold on this 1st day in December

We have entered into December, and it is cold outside. It feels like it is colder this year than it has been in prior years. Although I live in California, I am freezing right now. We have had very little rain so far, which is concerning because California needs rain badly. We will have another dry winter, and with that comes the lack of water supply.
Everyone stay warm and safe!

Mug #70

Silence

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 70
Here is #Mug#70 - Silence

Mug #69

No words, just a picture

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 69

Here is #Mug#69 - No words, just a picture

Mug #68

Handmade Mugs

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 68

Here is #Mug#68 - Handmade Mugs

As a ceramic artist, I look at dinnerware now in a completely different way than I used to. I have been addicted to ceramic dinnerware my entire life; different unusual designs have always fascinated me. Since I started this journey with Ceramics in 2018, I no longer look at the mass-produced ceramics the same way; I enjoy the handmade, organic look. Each day I drink out of a different mug handmade by a ceramic artist, which I enjoy a whole lot more than drinking coffee or tea out of a manufactured mug.

The love for ceramics and working with my hands, and creating a piece of art for others to enjoy is what gets me excited each day.

Most of my first 50 mugs have been glazed; only a very few people have seen them. It is great to see their reactions and how excited they get when seeing them for the first time.
Once all of the mugs have been glazed, I will start posting them here and on my blog, The Element. Make sure you sign up for my Newsletter to get notified of updates.

Depending on COVID, I will probably have a show in 2021, which I hope can be in-person vs. online.

Mug #67

The Holidays

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 67

Here is #Mug#67 - The Holidays

I have taken this year mostly as an exploratory time for my journey; I believe jumping into this full-on can hurt not only my business venture but also leave patrons disappointed.

The journey of my project of making 100Mugs100Ways has been a joyful ride this far. The making of different mugs is an exciting exploration for me and an important one.

This journey may not be as exciting to others because my current posts don’t display much life, which is completely ok with me, and I imagine that this will also form a trusting bond with those who follow me and appreciate the tour I have taken.

Since I don’t have my electric kiln set up, it is an ongoing struggle because I depend on others to fire my work for me, which is also very costly. I was very fortunate to fire with a studio mate, who did a gas firing on Wednesday. It was as exciting as it was nerve-racking, he has done a few gas firings and is good at it, but things can always go wrong. I only added a few items as a test. All went well, and we are planning a reduction firing soon.

With all of the above taken into consideration, some followers have asked if I am offering any of my work for sale. I will have a few items to offer for sale, which will happen around the middle of December if all goes well with firing and scheduling.

Sign up for my newsletter “The Element,” follow my stories, posts, reels, and IGTV to stay informed, so you don’t miss out on my tiny Holiday offerings.

In closing, I like to wish you all a safe and healthy holiday and zoom or virtually hook up with loved ones and mostly take care of yourself and others.

Mug #66

Today is not only Thanksgiving Day but also National Day of Mourning

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 66

Here is #Mug#66 - Today is not only Thanksgiving Day but also National Day of Mourning

Let's not forget, not everyone celebrates Thanksgiving, today is also National Day of Mourning, a gathering held every Thanksgiving on Cole’s Hill in Plymouth to honor indigenous ancestors and the struggles that Native people face today.

Mug #65

Glaze Firing

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 65

Here is #Mug#65 - Glaze Firing

I am inexperienced when it comes to firing because I have always outsourced it, but for the very first time today, I fired a gas kiln with a Studio mate @markmartinarts. We will find out tomorrow if all went well.

I will provide a link here to the Ceramics network, which explains the firing process:

https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/firing-techniques/electric-kiln-firing/firing-clay-lowdown-ceramic-firing-process/

Without going into more details, there is so much to learn about this process.

Here are the most common ways to fire ceramics:

A. Electric Kiln, which is very common these days
B. Glas Kiln
C. Wood Fire Kiln, the traditional way.

I am very inexperienced, and I am eager to learn about the firing process. I am also looking into getting a book on firing.
If any of my ceramic friends have any great suggestions, I am all ears.

Mug #64

Cleaning and waxing the bottom

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 64

Here is #Mug#64 - Cleanup and waxing the bottom

After each glazing, I make sure the mug looks clean. I don't want to see any streaks, discolorations, grooves, etc. if I work with underglazes that can happen sometimes if it does I will reapply the underglaze.

When applying high fire glazes, I make sure the glaze stays away 1/8" off the bottom of the mug to prevent the glaze from running onto the kiln shelf.

If I get the glaze on the bottom of a mug and when it is fired, it will stick to the kiln shelf, resulting in a lot of damage to the shelf, and it will most likely ruin the mug.

In addition, I can use Wax On, which is a wax resist, I apply it by using either a brush or a foam square. I need to be cautious because the wax resist can get on other parts of the mug, which I want to avoid at all cause. The wax resist will burn off during the firing and it will not leave any fumes.

Another way is to use a wet sponge to wipe away any unwanted glaze from the bottom. Since I brush the high fire glazes on, I am very careful not to get any glaze on the bottom, to begin with, but if it does I can quickly wipe it off with a wet sponge.

I have had very little issue by simply following the above-mentioned guidelines.

Mug #63

Decorating/glazing a mug

#100Mugs#100Ways

Day 63

Here is #Mug #63 - Decorating/glazing a mug

Glazing and decorating ceramics is a fun and rewarding aspects of working in clay. This is the time when a mug or any work comes to life. It can tell a story, be political, communicate a message, show beauty, but it is also a way to show off my creativity.

Because there are endless methods for decorating pottery, from the forming stage through final glazing and beyond, the methods used to glaze are endless, and it would fill an entire book to list all of the ways to decorate.

You can check out my IGTV and Reels to watch the various methods I have used in the past. Be sure to check both out as I am always adding more process videos.

Mug #62

Sanding

#100Mugs#100Ways

Day 62

Here is #Mug #62 - Sanding

A. Sanding my bisqueware 

There are a few reasons why I may choose to sand my bisqueware.

Sometimes there are rough parts, especially on a mug's foot; it happens but not very often.

I notice the rough parts more on clay that contains a lot of grog, less with porcelain because it is much smoother.

I save time by addressing the rough spots during the bisqueware stage than when it is glaze fired because it is softer, and the sharper edges and rough spots in the clay won't have been concealed by glaze yet.

I have noticed that glaze can break over a blemish and highlight it, which is not mainly a look I want to see.

I also want to keep in mind that a smooth surface can accentuate bumps, changes in textures, and undulations. These can be design features in some cases, but it's best to remove them when the clay is in the bisqueware stage if they are not.

B. How do I sand my bisqueware?

When the bisque fired work returns from the firing, I analyze each mug by running my hand over it carefully; this shows me what parts need sanding.

When sanding bisqueware, I prefer to get the mug wet; this helps avoid any airborne dust made during sanding. Generally, it is recommended to use wet/dry sandpaper to sand bisque.

Wet sanding bisqueware doesn't eliminate dust. Therefore it is still a good idea to wear my respirator.

I can sand a mug in several different ways. Either run my mug under tap water, wet the sandpaper, then sand, or dip the mug and sandpaper into water and sand it.

Then I sand the dry bisque; I prefer not to get the bisque completely wet if I can avoid it.

C. Cleaning up the mug after sanding

It is essential to clean up each mug before glazing it. The sanding creates a paste on the surface, and it needs to be removed because it can cause problems when firing the mug. 

From what I have experienced in the past, dust and bisque particles prevent the glaze from bonding to the surface.

Sometimes when seeing a bare patch on a mug, that may be the reason the glaze did not fill into that area because of the dust and particles. 

To avoid this, I clean up each mug with a wet sponge or run it under the tap water or dip it in water to remove any residue left on the work. 

I want to let the bisque completely dry for a day or so after wet sanding it.

Mug #61

Bisque firing

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 61

Here is #Mug#61 - Bisque firing

Currently, I outsource all of my bisque fire and high fire.
I will elaborate more on that another time when I have gained some experience.

Here is an excellent article in Ceramics Monthly, which explains the process very well.

Mug #60

Drying Time

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 60

Here is #Mug #60 - Drying Time

I need to consider many factors when drying my work before sending it be fired.

A. How Do I know when my mugs are dry enough?

When my work dries, I notice that the color of the clay turns lighter. There is a certain percentage of water in the clay of my mugs. An excellent way to tell is that the piece feels much lighter when it has completely dry.

A nice way to check if it is dry enough is to hold it against my cheek; if the clay feels like it is at room temperature or slightly cool when it touches my cheek, it is dry. However, if it feels chilly, I will give it more time. 

B. I must consider the climate.

The climate is a huge factor; if it is too humid, my mugs will still be moist after a week. I need to give my work at least 1-2 weeks to dry entirely in a humid climate. 

However, if the climate is dry, like the desert, a piece should be bone dry in one week or even sooner. 

One bad aspect of a dryer climate is that there is a high possibility for the piece to crack, so I need to take extra precautions. I usually cover my mugs up with plastic layers and take layers off to do a slow drying process when the climate is dry.

C. The size and thickness matters 

Usually, my mugs do not have thick walls, but if I were to create a piece, like a sculpture that is thicker, I would need to give it much more time to dry; again, it all depends on the climate, and for a thicker piece, it can take weeks to get it completely dry.   

D. Different clay body

If I work with different clay bodies, I need to consider that the difference in the clays plays a big part in how long my work needs to dry before firing. A clay body like porcelain with high plastics and finer particles has higher water content. Consequently, my work will take longer to dry, and the shrinkage will be more significant.

The more a piece shrinks, the higher is the chance my work can crack. 

If I work with clay that has grog in it, it will help reduce cracking and shrinkage, and it will dry much faster.

Grog is clay that has been fired then ground up. Grog comes in many-particle sizes, from fine to coarse. It is used to reduce shrinkage in clay bodies.

E. Uneven Drying

Clay can shrink anywhere from 2% to 14% during the drying process, which doesn’t include when the piece is fired. My work will shrink even more in the kiln.

The clays with the highest shrinkage volume can crack if not dried evenly because the drying clay is pulling away from the moist clay, and that is when separation can happen. 

I also need to consider that stoneware has a higher shrinkage rate than earthware.

Mug #59

Cleaning up the mug

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 59

Here is #Mug #59 - Cleaning up the mug

Sometimes, a mug needs to be cleaned up from marks, small imperfections and to smooth the surface.

I make sure my hands are clean and free from oils, lotions, or other contaminants.

I handle the greenware mug with both hands and carefully cradle it in one hand as I clean it with the other hand.

In general, I use a damp sponge to clean up dust and dried clay particles on the surface, and sometimes I may have to sand as well.

The final cleaning step is to use a damp sponge to wipe down the greenware and remove abrasion marks, scratches, and imperfections created during throwing and attaching the handle. I also consider a too wet sponge can destroy some of the shape’s detail; too dry, and I may accidentally polish the surface.

When sanding greenware, I wear a Miller Electric ML00895 Half Mask Respirator with a P100 filter to protect me and avoid me breathing any clay dust. If I have to sand a mug or any ceramic piece, I go outside to do so, which eliminates any dust settling in the studio.

Safety is of the utmost importance when working with clay.

Mug #58

Making and attaching a handle

#100Mugs100Ways

Day 58 

Here is #Mug #58 - Making and attaching a handle

There are different ways to create a handle. 

1. Pulling a handle

2. Using an extruder

3. Cut a handle from a slap

4. To roll out a coil 

5. To cut a handle out of clay

I will only talk about the method I currently prefer to use, which is pulling a handle.

Here are the benefits I find in pulling a handle:

1. When pulling a handle, I prefer to go for a more organic look, and, for me, I find it to be a better quality to handle. 

2. Pulling a handle allows to align all the clay particles, which strengthens the clay. 

What exactly does pulling a handle mean?

1. It requires a gentle pulling to create a smooth shape that will look perfect on my mug.

2. When I pull a handle, I always use the same type of clay I used to make my mug.

3. Before starting, I always wedge the clay to ensure all of the air bubbles have been pushed out. 

4. The next step is very important; I form a thick carrot shape from a chunk of clay to pull several handles from it. 

5. I take the chunk of clay (carrot) into my left hand, with a bucket of water underneath; I use my right hand to smooth down the clay, by wetting my hands, I pull down as I go, with my fingers and thumb. It is similar to milking a cow. :-). I repeat this step until I have the length I desire.

6. I often pull the handle out a bit longer than I need, to ensure I have enough when it comes to attaching it to my mug.

7. Once I have made my handle, I hang it over the edge of a wooden bat, so the air can get to both sides and dry it a little before I attach it. 

8. I need to be sure my mug is at a leather hard stage, and the handle is dry enough to form a gentle curve when it's held. 

9. Next, I use my knife to cut the handle to the exact right length; I score the handle ends with a little water and place the handle onto the mug where I want to attach it. Then I remove the handle, and the points (wet clay residue) will show me where the handle should go.

10. Then I score the mug at those points.

11. I will then score the handle a little more and attach it to the mug, I can also use a little slip on my scored points and then carefully attach the handle, applying gentle pressure at the parts it joins. I clean the surrounded area where the handle is attached to the mug and make sure it looks nice and even.

12. Lastly, I carefully let the pot dry. If I choose to carve it, I will do so now, let it dry, then apply underglazes or let it rest until it is completely dry, and then it will be send off to be fired.

Here is a video from Simon Leach explaining the process:

Website -http://www.simonleachpottery.com To DONATE ...if you appreciate - https://www.paypal.me/SL105 SUBSCRIBE, click the BELL ( for notifications) and KEEP ...

The next video shows Simon attaching the handle, he does some extra steps I don’t do.

Taking orders on Leach wheels ..again ! Website -http://www.simonleachpottery.com - To DONATE ...if you appreciate https://www.paypal.me/SL105 **** YES we DO s...